Paris Fashion Week becomes colorful, soft and underwater
The Friday episode of Paris Fashion Week took viewers to the depths of the oceans and rocked identity politics in the office. But all eyes turned to the evening’s display, by Valentino.
Here are some highlights of the Spring 2022 collections presented on Friday:
ISSEY MIYAKE IS SWEET
The elasticity of the water was the anchor of Issey Miyake’s collection, which included brightly colored swim caps and hats resembling sea creatures.
But it was the form in its purest form that started Friday’s collection – against a backdrop of minimalist square panels.
A sporty waistcoat, clean and pale pastel, sets the tone for spring. It was the top of a dress whose skirt was constructed with flattened Japanese lanterns. This idea of flattened, three-dimensional shapes ran through all 40 looks. The lantern motif reappeared on several key elements as well – one with the hole positioned on the model’s chest like a talisman.
Instead of the regular lantern ribs, the Japanese house, known for its use of tech fabrics, used elastic pleats to give structure and bounce to the bottom of its lightweight dresses. The house called this the “link rings” motif.
It was a soft, portable screen.
THE WALL STREET RAF SIMONS MAGNIFIER
Paris Fashion Week has for years blurred the lines between men’s and women’s fashion. Raf Simons picked up this tried and true theme for his spring show, but took it a step further.
This was a collection exploring androgyny at head office – the last place I would think of as a non-binary safe space.
It was very fun.
At the Bourse de la Begins, a finely tailored business jacket scrolls above a gray skirt with a ruffle cut at an angle. The models sported gender-neutral, grunge-styled hair – the long styles that were all the rage in the mid-1990s.
Simple oversized tops and wide swaths of nude fabric add the minimalist touch often associated with the Belgian designer, who once designed for Dior.
But there was also a splash of color that shattered the collection, which used an otherwise mute palette. Red prints infused the front of a black jacket while blue text on a skirt almost looked like it had been sprayed like graffiti.